Well, I’ve not been out much since the weather has got rather wet and there’s salt down.
So I warmed her up today and then took a little video of a post warm up start.
I just wanted to be sure she was still starting and running ok and double check the lights, etc.
What I found last time I was driving her though (and when she was cold today) is that she’s struggling to rev (no guts) between 1,000 and 2,500 and then picks up fine post 3,000 rpm
Then once a warmed for 5 mins she’s all good again through the rev range.
The only thing that happened between no issue and then this, is the stove pipe is pretty much toast now. Wondering if perhaps the broken pipe is having this effect?
Anyway, the car is running sweet other than that once warmed. Started on the button from cold after sitting for 2 weeks......
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DOC #230
VIN 11477 Jan '82
2010 Range Rover V8
2013 Mini Cooper S Works
You're a very Lucky boy Tris, it looks and sounds lovely. You should be very proud of what has been achieved. Funny how they all sound the same....or perhaps not!
Personally I ALWAYS fit and use a battery isolator switch. Mainly to avoid battery drain, but also to reduce the risk of fire or theft. I fitted one only last week, on MGJ on 2 X 18" fly-leads, so I can reach them down the side of the drivers seat. ( I then drop a yellow duster on top). On a LHD you would need to have 5 foot ones, or open up the passenger door to get at it. My point is, if its handy, I use it every time I get in and out of the car......if its not handy....it gets forgotten.
But either way so much more convenient that plugging in trickle chargers or pulling off battery leads.
I also follow Dave Howarth advice of frequently using injector additive...just to ensure nothing deteriorate during storage.
I plan to work on mine again today.....lots of work still to do.....
Chris Parnham
Ex RHD Auto's etc.etc
Main Car.. Kia E Niro 4+
Skoda Yetil 4X4.
Toyota Vitz 4X4 1999 (the smallest 4X4 by far!.
1970 Jago Jeep.
Thanks guys - it’s been a labour of love and will continue to be.
Next year ChrisN will work his magic to get rid of some bonnet dings and a flattened rear arch..... and a regrain and respray the front and rear fascias
And Chris, yep I already have a battery cutoff.... one of my early jobs on 11477
Here is is:
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DOC #230
VIN 11477 Jan '82
2010 Range Rover V8
2013 Mini Cooper S Works
Hi Tris.
Nice one - I need to fit a cutoff switch and am looking at the least invasive way of doing it. Maybe I need to run some cables as Chris has done?
I've tidied up a lot of the wiring around the engine bay and it's all looking a lot tidier in the nether regions !!
All the induction system is off 11789 at the mo as I had to reseat the distributor to retard the timing.
Previously I could only time to get #1 at TDC rather than approx 13 degrees before tdc - the dizzy was maxed out!
That being said, I also wanted to replace the water temp sensor, and I flushed the coolant system through after removing the two core plugs each side of the V6.
So I'm all ready to start putting the induction system on and fire her up again.
I had 20 quid in Halfraud vouchers and tonight I pick up a battery conditioner. - with Trade discount it'll cost me sick squid.
A New rear numberplate surround is on its way and also a David McKean RPM relay is being brought over from St Louis as my nephew is flying over on Xmas day !!!
Roll on my retirement - which takes place on Xmas Eve.
Vin 11789 (probably #50 of the Middle East batch of 50)
I bought one fly lead and connected the battery cable (from the car in the battery box) to the switch and then the fly lead from the switch to the battery.
Then the switch just completes the circuit.
It’s an easier placement for us on the lefty’s - CP has the awkward RHD
(I just reach to my right and flick the switch... it’s become a habit when I stop the car)
Tris
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DOC #230
VIN 11477 Jan '82
2010 Range Rover V8
2013 Mini Cooper S Works
I bought one fly lead and connected the battery cable (from the car in the battery box) to the switch and then the fly lead from the switch to the battery.
Then the switch just completes the circuit.
It’s an easier placement for us on the lefty’s - CP has the awkward RHD
(I just reach to my right and flick the switch... it’s become a habit when I stop the car)
Tris
Yeah I get the hook up process - I'm just trying to think of a way to mount it without drilling holes?
Vin 11789 (probably #50 of the Middle East batch of 50)
Kev,
I personally wouldn't loose too much sleep because of drilling a hole in the plastic cover.
But you could always fabricate a new cover, possibly out of a 20 Ltr plastic drum and a tube of Silkaflex...then paint it black and put the stickers on it, (that are readily available). Sorted.
As Tris says, you majority folk, (with the steering wheels on the wrong side), can reach behind your passenger seat to operate the switch....and that seems a pretty neat solution.
Chris Parnham
Ex RHD Auto's etc.etc
Main Car.. Kia E Niro 4+
Skoda Yetil 4X4.
Toyota Vitz 4X4 1999 (the smallest 4X4 by far!.
1970 Jago Jeep.
Last night she was loaded ready for shipping to Chris Nicholson.
And arrived safely with Chris:
While she’s there, the passenger rear quarter dents and wheel arch flatttening will be sorted and the bonnet dents.
Then a full regrain and finally resprayed front and rear fascias!
Oh and Chris is fitting a new drive shaft seal kit, boots, speedy seals and driveshaft bolts while she’s there.
I cannot wait to get her back when the weather breaks to show her off some more this summer!!
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DOC #230
VIN 11477 Jan '82
2010 Range Rover V8
2013 Mini Cooper S Works
So here’s a breakdown on what’s been done to 11477:
New aluminium rad
New silicone coolant hoses
New water pump
New thermostat
New clutch kit & rear main seal
New high output alternator
New braided fuel lines
New fuel accumulator
New clutch master
New brake master
New TABs
Stainless Dent removal
Full stainless regrain
Repaint front and rear fascias
New OEM seat covers
Re-stuffed door cards
I think that’s it
My daughter, Megan, helping re-stuff the door cards:
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DOC #230
VIN 11477 Jan '82
2010 Range Rover V8
2013 Mini Cooper S Works
My, you've been busy!! It looks amazing for it though and it's a real credit to the effort you've put in!
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I like the look of the repadded door linings, I ought to put that on my list for when the time comes that I can open my doors again!
(28 Apr 2020, 16:17)Rich Hanlon Wrote: My, you've been busy!! It looks amazing for it though and it's a real credit to the effort you've put in!
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I like the look of the repadded door linings, I ought to put that on my list for when the time comes that I can open my doors again!
Was it a DeGo radiator?
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Hi Rich,
Oh, and I recovered the headliners! Forgot to add that to the list.
Yep it’s been an epic couple of years!
I lost my Dad not long after he and I got it roadworthy and MOT’d
So I went full on to get it up to snuff in all other areas after that.
Yes, that’s the DGo radiator I have on there now.
I didn’t realise at the time, but the radiator that came out was a DeLorean One radiator. It appeared to be a good rad too.
Re-padding the door cards is quite satisfying. It was a lockdown job with my daughter that one
I hope you get your doors open soon!!
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DOC #230
VIN 11477 Jan '82
2010 Range Rover V8
2013 Mini Cooper S Works
(As far as I know there's nothing wrong with my doors, other than that they're pressed hard against the ceiling!!)
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Sorry to read about your loss, by the way, I suppose if you had worked on the car together it must be a poignant stage to have finally finished it.