Rissy Wrote:

stunned_monkey Wrote:When the condition of the rear boards decays to the point where the connector no longer works, you can a) buy new boards and a rear loom or b) solder to the boards. While I am in the camp of "do it properly or not at all" in most cases, I see no mechanical or electrical problem with soldering to bypass a buggered connector, and if the (then) owner has no problem with it...

Certainly I no longer use scotch-locks anywhere, heven't done in years. On the lambda connection, I leave the lambda box unplugged and connect directly to the single pin on the plug. This way the foglight is not back-fed should the lambda box ever hit "100". FWIW DMC used scotch locks in a couple of places.

I've never heard of a problem with one of the fogs I've done, except where the car subsequently changed hands and the new owner didn't know why their lambda light was on...

As ever, I can't help with problems I don't know about.

So funny this was just mentioned on here. Yesterday, on the way home from yours Martin, LEX hit 29,967 miles (now gone passed the 30,000 miles mark since eventually getting back to Rugby last night around 10:30pm) and my LAMBDA light came on. I'll admit, I was confused, but not overly worried. Wasn't until I got home, lying in bed, and thought "the LAMBDA box must still be connected, otherwise there would be no other way of the dash light coming on (other than by me pressing my centre console FOG light switch). There was no ill effect that I could see from this coming on. Fog lights still worked as normal, and no electrical issues as a result (that i'm aware of). I'm guessing you must have paralleled the LAMBDA counter switch with the console fog light switch....

Next time i'm out playing with the car, I'll try to pull the box out and try to reset the counter back to "000" again...